And certainly the companies that manufacture fashion items are as varied as the items themselves. Consider, for example, the vast differences between the giant corporation that produces many kinds of clothing for children, men, and women, and the small company that makes only jewelry or gloves. Some operations are highly mechanized and quite sophisticated. Others still go by the hand processes used fifty years ago.
Jobs with manufacturers generally will be found in these areas: the promotion or selling of the merchandise, the merchandising or styling of the line, and the production and business end of the manufacturing process. For more information on the profitable and exciting possibilities open to sales trainees for apparel and accessories manufacturers, refer to the description in the chapter on the textile industry.
SHOWROOM SALES TRAINEE
An important activity takes place right in the manufacturer's show-room once a manufacturer's new line of goods is ready to be shown to the buyers who have arrived from all over the country. With flair and enthusiasm, showroom workers present and perhaps even model the new line of merchandise. This is the time for buyers to be told about the newest styling, fabric, or color that is part of the line. Here the trainee must learn to present the merchandise to buyers in the most appealing way. And if buyers place orders, the showroom trainee must write up the order neatly and accurately. It also may be necessary to deal with buyers on the telephone as well as in person.
Trainees follow up on shipments of merchandise, and may have some contact both with the salespeople who sell out of the showroom and the outside sales force in their various geographic territories. Answering telephones, acting as receptionist, scheduling appointments, and performing clerical duties all may be part of this assignment. Training is informal and occurs on the job. During busy periods such as market week when much of the buying for each season occurs, overtime work may be required.
Excellent grooming and appearance are needed for this diversified entry-level position with a manufacturer. Employers often specify a particular height or clothing size they would like candidates to be, if occasional modeling will be required. A friendly, outgoing person who is poised, confident, and speaks well will be an excellent prospect for this job. Employers generally request applicants who have completed a specialized program in fashion merchandising, though in some cases it may be possible to land this position without a degree. Once a trainee is completely familiar with the line, it is likely that he or she might be given responsibility for some smaller accounts. The next step could be advancing to showroom sales, merchandising, or piece goods buying.
SHOWROOM SALES
This inside sales position allows the showroom salesperson to present the line of goods to buyers. Showroom sales offers the opportunity to get to know active and important accounts well and to service their needs. Showroom salespeople also have the chance to act as the link between the design team and the buyers by passing on comments and ideas expressed during various showings. The salesperson also may be required to supervise showroom trainees.
Successful showroom salespeople, who can communicate well, are good at the business of following through on customer service and production details, who dress and carry themselves fashionably, and who can present a line of merchandise at its best may advance to showroom managers. The showroom manager supervises all of the activity in the showroom and must keep the design staff informed of market trends and buyer feedback.
MERCHANDISING ASSISTANT
Working closely with the merchandiser, the assistant helps put the line of goods together for each season. The merchandising of a manufacturer's product is a varied and complex responsibility. Planning the line with the merchandiser requires some market research and an attempt to get to know what the customers want. The assistant needs to be familiar with the current market and with trends in colors, textures, fabrics, and new silhouettes. Other duties of the merchandising assistant include keeping neat and accurate records, filing swatches of fabrics, handling costing sheets, and helping to determine the price of each item. In addition, there is close contact with the merchandiser, the design and sales teams, the production staff, the piece goods department, and the buyers. Training is informal and is given on the job. During busy periods the assistant often is expected to work overtime.
Merchandising assistants must be well-organized, good at details, able to work under pressure, and capable of dealing well with many people. It is desirable to have a specialized degree in fashion merchandising for this position, which, depending on the potential of the employee, could lead to the positions of merchandiser or stylist.
MERCHANDISER
The merchandiser determines, based on the market research, the direction a manufacturer's line will take for each season. This information, along with an idea of production costs and data gathered in the field by the sales staff, allows the merchandiser to plan and promote the product. The merchandiser consults frequently with all available fashion resources and spends a great deal of time in the marketplace. These data are shared with the designer and perhaps with the owners of the firm before the overall look or direction of the line is agreed upon. In a large company, a merchandiser may be helped by one or more assistants. In a small firm, the designer or the stylist may perform this job.
Excellent knowledge of fashion resources, a keen fashion sense, and knowledge of production processes are important for anyone interested in advancing to this position. It also would be desirable to have a degree in fashion merchandising or apparel production.
SHOPPER/STYLIST TRAINEE
These jobs are occasionally available with manufacturers, and often combine the varied duties of merchandising assistants, production people, and piece goods assistants. Under the supervision of a shopper/stylist, the trainee actively shops the market-retail stores and fabric houses, notions manufacturers, and trim sources-to help keep the firm completely up-to-date on the latest fashion happenings. This market research allows the shopper/stylist to gather enough information to be able to bring in ideas about style, fabric, and color that will be used to help create the next line.
Sketching ability is very helpful here, as the trainee must quickly sketch specific ideas that may provide direction. These openings are found in smaller firms that do not have a regular design room staff. In a large operation, a shopper/stylist trainee may be hired to assist the design staff if they are too busy to gather all the necessary information themselves. Qualifications and skills required for this position include an excellent fashion sense, a flair for color, and knowledge of fabrics. A keen and observant eye for new trends also is essential. A portfolio of fashion sketches should be submitted to the potential employer when applying for this position. Employers are generally interested in hiring people with a fashion merchandising or textile background; though a fashion design background also might be helpful.
SHOPPER/STYLIST
The shopper/stylist has full responsibility for presenting new trends and ideas to the principals of the firm as well as to others involved in setting the look of each season's line. By sketching ideas and concepts on paper and thoroughly researching the fabric market, the shopper/stylist can put together a complete fashion picture for the firm. The shopper/ stylist may work closely with the patternmaker and the merchandiser to help develop ideas. There is also an opportunity for fabric selection and coordination of the line. The shopper/stylist may be assisted by a trainee and then have the responsibility of training and directing that worker.
ASSISTANT PIECE GOODS/TRIMS BUYER
Piece goods are the fabrics the manufacturer uses to make garments. Trims are the parts of the garments you may not even notice-the zippers, buttons, snaps, or other decorations. Some trimmings are very noticeable, however. For example, the embroidered patches or appliqués on your jeans or jacket may be the very reason you decided to buy them.
The assistant piece goods/trims buyer works very closely with the piece goods/trims buyer and assists by keeping clear and accurate records and swatch files; ordering fabrics, trims, and notions; and following up on these shipments and handling reorders when needed. Much learning occurs when the assistant goes with the buyer on visits to the fabric and trims markets. A broad knowledge of the piece goods business can be gained in this way. This job requires an interest in and knowledge of fabrics, an ability to work with figures and keep accurate records, and good communications skills. With diligent effort, this job prepares you for the position of piece goods/trims buyer. People with specialized training in either fashion merchandising or textiles will be of interest to employers.
PIECE GOODS/TRIMS BUYER
The piece goods/trims buyer has total responsibility for researching the textile and trims markets, and for buying these items. In larger firms, this position may involve the handling of many thousands of dollars worth of piece goods and trimmings each season. Piece goods buyers may work closely with the design and merchandising staffs to provide the latest information available about textiles and trims. In some cases, the designer makes all fabric selections for the piece goods buyer to purchase. In other companies, the piece goods buyers actually make the fabric and trimming selections from which the design staff works. If you have ever bought an item simply because you loved the fabric, you can see how important the job of the piece goods/trims buyer is.
"IN THE PERSONALITY BUSINESS"
By the time Sam was in junior high school, he knew he was heading for a career in fashion merchandising. A relative who was a buyer for a department store helped to make Sam aware of the fashion world. He knew more about merchandising than most of his friends. In high school, courses in distributive education gave him more information about careers and increased his interest even further. He chose a commercial curriculum so that he would be able to take more distributive education courses and learn more about this appealing field.
Through a part-time job with a local card and gift shop, Sam got experience in sales, stock, and window display. While still in high school, he applied for a sales job in the men's furnishings department of a large store. He was hired and loved working there. That experience convinced him seriously to consider the fashion merchandising field for his future.
Guidance counselors and teachers encouraged Sam to consider a college program in fashion merchandising and suggested the two-year degree in fashion buying and merchandising offered at FIT. Once enrolled in the program, Sam discovered he was in a comfortable setting where all the other students had the same interests and "spoke the same fashion language."
After his first year at college, Sam was one of eleven students selected for a special summer program at a large, fashion-oriented department store in New York City. Part of that summer assignment was a chance to work in the store's fashion office. Sam's task was to help stage a "Back to School" fashion show. This fabulous experience allowed Sam to work with buyers and manufacturers, help coordinate merchandise, and assist in window and interior displays. Once the program was completed, Sam and a few other students were asked to stay on to assist with a "Line for Line Fashion Show" put on at the Plaza Hotel in New York City. This added to Sam's unusual and well-rounded fashion experience that summer.
As part of Sam's school program, he was now ready to start his co-op or work-study assignment. He was hired at the department store where he originally had a part-time sales job when he was in high school. His position in the young men's department began just as men's fashions started catching the attention of the public. The department was very active, busily trying to keep pace with all of the apparel that young men were buying.
Two weeks after his co-op job began; the department's buyer became quite ill. Sam was quickly given the assistant buyer title and handled all of the Christmas business. It was a hectic time, but Sam took care of everything successfully. He was asked to stay on as a part-time department manager when the co-op assignment ended, and he did.
After finishing two active years at college, Sam was ready to enter the job market. With great enthusiasm, he accepted a position in an advertising agency working with several fashion accounts. It took him only two weeks to learn that the job was not right for him. Through FIT's placement office, he found another position as an assistant buyer for a catalog and discount chain operation. Working in the accessories area, Sam spent his time in the market, dealing with manufacturers of ladies' belts, hosiery, and costume jewelry. He learned a great deal about the workings of the buying office and gained experience analyzing the success of the items that were featured in the catalog for home shoppers.
Not entirely pleased with life in New York City, Sam took the bold step of relocating to Philadelphia. He sent his resume to every large retail store and had many interviews. Although he really needed a job, he was very clear about what he now wanted. His earlier retail experience convinced him that the men's wear area was the most appealing to him. And he wanted to be an assistant buyer.
When the store of his choice offered him a position, Sam was disappointed. It was a job in sales, as no assistant buying openings were available in the young men's department. Nevertheless, Sam wisely accepted the offer. He knew that with his flair and style, coupled with his experience and market background in New York City, he could be very valuable to the company.
Sam's personal manner of dress was helpful too. Sam quickly became a style setter for the department. The department buyer was happy to have such an aware salesperson and was receptive to Sam's ideas. He was soon offered the assistant buyer's job he wanted and worked at it for one year, bringing new life and vitality to that department.
The next step on the promotional ladder was an assignment as a group manager in a branch store. Store policy required this before Sam could become a full-fledged buyer. As a group manager, he learned a great deal. He supervised the entire sales staff, handled all customer problems and credit issues, supervised floor displays, and acquired broad administrative exposure. He was then asked to return to the main store, again as an assistant buyer, to wait for a buying position to open up.
During this waiting period, he involved himself with a new venture handling fashion seminars for the branch stores. This was a chance for Sam to promote new looks and trends, and it was a great success. He coordinated an annual ten-day fund-raising event for a local hospital. He set up a small designer clothing shop for men and women, staffed it, stocked it, and chose all of the displays. He had full responsibility for this well-publicized and exciting event.
Still waiting for the buying spot to become available, Sam continued as an assistant buyer in the junior sportswear area for two years. He remembers this period with great delight. The junior sportswear department was bustling and very busy, and sold a complete range of fashionable items. He soon had the job of buying for one of the areas of the department, and business continued to grow. Sam received job offers from other retail stores during this time, but he held fast, indicating his loyalty to the store.
Finally, his patience paid off. A position as a buyer became available in the designer sportswear and accessories area. This was a new department in the store, and Sam truly wanted the job. He was interviewed by the store's merchandise manager and was offered the position. At age twenty-three Sam was a full-fledged buyer, and very proud. He knew that he was very young for so much responsibility, but he believed he was well-prepared for the job. It was exactly what he wanted.
A very elegant couture area was added to Sam's department, and that meant lots of travel back and forth to New York City on buying trips. After six months, Sam made his first buying trip to Europe. He returned enthusiastic and opened a French boutique in his department. It became a very successful operation, and still exists today, bringing glamour and style to the entire unit.
Sam's endless energy allowed him to put on twenty to twenty-five fashion shows yearly. He also ran an early morning fashion seminar, free to the public, covering various fashion topics. He worked with three branch stores coordinating and promoting their fashion merchandise. He developed good relationships with many of his customers and often bought for their individual requests. Active socially, he was able to get to know his customers at charity balls and fund-raising events.
Despite this exhilarating pace, Sam realized after a while that he wanted other kinds of retailing experiences. Sam knew he was ready for a change and began to consider other offers. A new and exciting prospect of coordinating men's wear fashions for an important department store chain in New York City was open. After several interviews with key executives in the firm, Sam was hired. He is in that position now, and has market responsibilities for men's designer and contemporary clothing and fashion coordinating responsibilities in all the men's furnishings areas.
In a newly established position with few set routines, Sam has the freedom to set up many of his own projects. After just three weeks at work, Sam was in South America developing contacts with manufacturers there. He continues to travel extensively, visiting manufacturers all over the world. He then returns to make slide presentations of what he has seen to the individual stores, so they are kept current and up-to-date. He researches new fibers, color trends, and styles and relays all this information to buyers before they go on their buying trips.
Sam's job is a very diversified and busy one. But he loves what he does. It taps right into his great style sense and flair for fashion. He believes he can work with many kinds of people and get them excited about new projects. Sam is now known in his field as someone who has a good record of accomplishments. He speaks of fashion merchandising as a "personality business," where cooperation and flexibility really count. He's active, energetic, and extremely dedicated to the dynamic world of merchandising.
